We hace dowclock a lot because eth mining Is not benefit of that but can sone one say if try oc coreclock to get more hash in dual coin mining (día lbry or dcr or whatever
Awesome work Jukebox. I've flashed 4 Sapphire Nitro cards so far (2 OC, 2 non OC) with the VDROP BIOS. My lower ASIC rated cards are only pulling 72-74W at 29.5Mh after undervolting with Trixx. The higher ASIC rated cards are pulling just under 80W. I ordered a few more non OC Sapphire cards. Thanks for these BIOS's. Looking forward to your 30Mh one!
BTW, could just be my luck but the OC models allowed me to undervolt a tad more than non the non OC models. I think Sapphire may be binning the Nitro cards but not worth the extra $40 CAD for each card IMHO, just sticking with the non OC models.
@Blue, 70 - 80W measured in from GPU-Z. No 480's (or any other card FWIW) can pull 80W from the wall at 29Mh. Each card is pulling approx 120W from the wall.
FYI All, GPU-Z watt reader is very very inaccurate. I had my 470 cards reading 75W on GPU-Z but when I bought a watt-reader, it read 130W. So keep that in mind if you're working out ROI
FYI All, GPU-Z watt reader is very very inaccurate. I had my 470 cards reading 75W on GPU-Z but when I bought a watt-reader, it read 130W. So keep that in mind if you're working out ROI
GPU-z watt reader is pretty accurate, but its only for the GPU unit not the whole PCB.
have anyone tested on dual mining ether+sia with that bios? how it goes?
I'm getting 29.2 to 29.5 Mh/s plus about 340 Mh/s Sia per card, with a -dcri setting of 23. With -dcri set to 35, I get 27.1-27.3, and around 510-520 Mh/s per card.
and thanks for posting this rom @jukebox. This is sort of a test rig (6x), and I was pulling 1520W at the wall with two EVGA P2 1000w PSUs. I'm down to 1120w, and total hashrate over 170 with 1900+ Mh Sia. Temps are 66-68 deg.
I have a RX 480 4GB(8GB)?. The 4GB sticker was covering up the 8GB as shown in the picture. * Why is the 8GB covered up with a 4GB sticker? * How can I check if it is the 8GB or 4GB version? GPU-Z is showing up as 4GB.
I tried flashing it with the BIOS provided in the thread but the system hangs as soon as windows loads. (or enabling the GPU in device manager). Would that mean it is only a 4GB version?
Any advice to improve hash rate? At default settings, no bios mod, it is hashing at a disapointing hash rate of 22Mh/s.
Instead of leaving the memory voltage at default 1000, I dropped it to 980. My hashrates increased, from a total of 170-171 for a 6x rig, to 174.8-175.2, mining ETH only. I'm seeing less throttling as well, a more consistent 172-175+. My power at the wall dropped to 930w. This is very good.
FYI All, GPU-Z watt reader is very very inaccurate. I had my 470 cards reading 75W on GPU-Z but when I bought a watt-reader, it read 130W. So keep that in mind if you're working out ROI
GPU-z watt reader is pretty accurate, but its only for the GPU unit not the whole PCB.
I don't think so. My GPU-Z reads 75W for my 470 in a 6 rig setup. If we go by GPU-Z measure, that means 75*5 = 375W + 60W for my system = 435W for my entire rig.
But my watt-reader on the wall shows 810W.
That's nearly 100% difference in overall watt measurement.
But of course it is up to you all to choose what to believe in.
4phasesGPU+1phaseMem+1phaseMemController - are connected to external PCI-E 1phaseGPU is connected to internal PEG-slot all the mosfets are marked as 4C1ON RER53 30V/46A
@Jukebox: dumb question, but can you really do a vBios switch on the fly while in the OS? I thought that the PC should always be turned off when doing this.
I don't think so. My GPU-Z reads 75W for my 470 in a 6 rig setup. If we go by GPU-Z measure, that means 75*5 = 375W + 60W for my system = 435W for my entire rig.
But my watt-reader on the wall shows 810W.
That's nearly 100% difference in overall watt measurement.
But of course it is up to you all to choose what to believe in.
I don't think you understand what GPUz is showing you. GPUz is only showing you what your GPU is drawing. Just because it shows 80W, doesn't mean your entire card pulls 80W at all, that's just completely false.
I sometimes feel like people don't understand that if you want to show your wattage or what you achieved while tweaking your BIOS, you should always quote a physical wattmeter that's plugged in the wall.
Factoring in the other components of your cards, they probably draw around 120W each, so times 6 that's 720W + system amounts to about 810W.
@Jukebox: dumb question, but can you really do a vBios switch on the fly while in the OS? I thought that the PC should always be turned off when doing this.
Sure I do. But it need to understand what is going on.
If you boot with one jumper position, this bios version works till you reboot, no matter what you do with jumper after OS loaded. BUT!When you try to flash your card, jumper position ALWAYS matter.
New bios will be flashed with current jumper position.
DO NOT change jumper position during flashing procedure. Do it only BEFORE run Atiflash.
@Jukebox: dumb question, but can you really do a vBios switch on the fly while in the OS? I thought that the PC should always be turned off when doing this.
Sure I do. But it need to understand what is going on.
If you boot with one jumper position, this bios version works till you reboot, no matter what you do with jumper after OS loaded. BUT!When you try to flash your card, jumper position ALWAYS matter.
New bios will be flashed with current jumper position.
DO NOT change jumper position during flashing procedure. Do it only BEFORE run Atiflash.
Yes so basically if my flash is bad, i turn off the computer, switch to working bios, boot to OS, switch back to faulty BIOS and reflash it.
Yes so basically if my flash is bad, i turn off the computer, switch to working bios, boot to OS, switch back to faulty BIOS and reflash it.
Yes, this is correct.
Are both positions equivalent to begin with? And are they interchangeable until flashed? I.e. no matter which position the switch is in, if I flash (that position), and it fails, I just power down, flip to the other position, and restart?
@Heliox have you made any progress on your Nitro+ ROMs? These cards should be capable of 34+ I would think.
Even if it's possible, you'll need an insane overclock, overvolt and have huge power consumption.
Yes, I'm not saying it's practical, but I'd be interested in seeing what the cards (and @heliox) can do. He was able to run Nanos at 39-40 as I recall.
sorry for dumb question. how i change jumper position?
Maybe you just do not know where it placed and how it looks?
maybe .
first i thought that i will move something on the gpu.then i looked on the googla,and i saw that jumper is this raiser putet in the mb slot. but this i cannot change. or can i? hm..
Comments
BTW, could just be my luck but the OC models allowed me to undervolt a tad more than non the non OC models. I think Sapphire may be binning the Nitro cards but not worth the extra $40 CAD for each card IMHO, just sticking with the non OC models.
the 80 W is in GPU-Z? or from the Wall?
With -dcri set to 35, I get 27.1-27.3, and around 510-520 Mh/s per card.
I have a RX 480 4GB(8GB)?. The 4GB sticker was covering up the 8GB as shown in the picture.
* Why is the 8GB covered up with a 4GB sticker?
* How can I check if it is the 8GB or 4GB version? GPU-Z is showing up as 4GB.
I tried flashing it with the BIOS provided in the thread but the system hangs as soon as windows loads. (or enabling the GPU in device manager). Would that mean it is only a 4GB version?
Any advice to improve hash rate? At default settings, no bios mod, it is hashing at a disapointing hash rate of 22Mh/s.
But my watt-reader on the wall shows 810W.
That's nearly 100% difference in overall watt measurement.
But of course it is up to you all to choose what to believe in.
no OC at all
4phasesGPU+1phaseMem+1phaseMemController - are connected to external PCI-E
1phaseGPU is connected to internal PEG-slot
all the mosfets are marked as
4C1ON
RER53
30V/46A
I sometimes feel like people don't understand that if you want to show your wattage or what you achieved while tweaking your BIOS, you should always quote a physical wattmeter that's plugged in the wall.
Factoring in the other components of your cards, they probably draw around 120W each, so times 6 that's 720W + system amounts to about 810W.
If you boot with one jumper position, this bios version works till you reboot, no matter what you do with jumper after OS loaded.
BUT!When you try to flash your card, jumper position ALWAYS matter.
New bios will be flashed with current jumper position.
DO NOT change jumper position during flashing procedure. Do it only BEFORE run Atiflash.
first i thought that i will move something on the gpu.then i looked on the googla,and i saw that jumper is this raiser putet in the mb slot. but this i cannot change. or can i? hm..