I thought this would be easier to find just sifting through past topics, but I'm not having much luck.
I'm playing around with a single MSI FROZR r9 290 and am trying to optimize the settings short of using a modded bios (i'll get to that eventually...)
at 1050 core 1400 mem it runs stable enough at 28-29MH but the temps skyrocket to 95 very quickly. I can undervolt a bit, but I've seen -100mv reccomended, but that just crashes my PC. I am blessed with about 82% ASIC quality.
Any experienced 290 users have advice to optimize this card?
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Currently at 1100/1200 -50mv.
All my ref R9 290s run at 31MHS+
I reduced my mem down to 1125 like you, and did not lose any MH (still at 31). However I'm still having temp issues. Anything below -50mv and I get crashes.
I'm surprised considered the beast of a cooler on this card. I'm close to just pulling it apart and re-applying better thermal paste.
What is the AUX voltage you speak of?should have read that closer. AUX is down -100mv but I'm still hitting 95 degrees and the card throttles down to ~20-25MH
R9 290s better than rx 480 ???!
@SIRacer09 That was with fans at 100%. I just pulled the cooler off to find a minimal amount of old dried thermal paste. So I applied some Antec Formula 7 and my startup temp dropped from about 55 or 60 down to 42. Now its mining at a stable 31-31.1 MH/s with the temp stable in the low 80s after 10 minutes, fan around 60%.
If I crank the fan to 100% I can bring it down to 79.
My final settings are 1100/1100 -50mv core -100mv AUX
Core Voltage: -19mV
Core Clock: 1180/1185 mhz
Memory: 1125 mhz
Fan: 70% (temp is at 77-78C)
If you want to go down that route (it's expensive but works great) you can actually use waterblocks designed for the reference 290 on this card. The 3 watercooled ones (I have 2 other reference 290s watercooled) are running high 50s and low 60s, three cards in one loop using a 360mm radiator. I'm pretty sure it's possible to get some of the "all in one" watercooling kits designed for CPUs to fit but you would have to look into it. Definitely not something that makes sense for return on investment but this is all really a fun hobby to me that happens to make money and I love watercooling.
The other MSI twin frozr I have has an external fan always pointed straight into it and it's currently at 74 with an ambient temp of around 18. I have its fan at 100%. It's not going to like the Australian summer that's for sure. I actually tried doing the disassembly and re-application of thermal paste, etc with my 1st MSI but it actually got worse! I must have done something wrong, it's easy to damage all the thermal pads of the memory, VRMs, etc. If you are going to try it do it carefully. You can find replacement pads on Ebay but they are varying thicknesses so buy a few types. Best idea is to buy a couple of sheets of different thickness (0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm) and cut your own out. Also MSI don't exactly make it easy because they use some plastic spacers which are actually bonded to the PCB and I had to scalpel them loose. Make sure you use good thermal paste and don't use too much! Just a thin smear, or a dot in the centre of the GPU core. I have replaced thermal paste on plenty of other cards and it always helped but not with this one. Unfortunately I don't know what I did to make it worse so I can't warn you about it - it went from running at 86 to going above 90 and throttling, and that was the point where I said F it and bought a waterblock. I already had pump & radiator. I guess it just wouldn't be worth it if you had to buy a whole watercooling rig. Judging by the two MSI twin frozr 290s that I have - they seem to get worse over time and obviously weren't intended to be run 24/7. As I said my experience with new thermal paste was a bad one but if you do it carefully you may be OK. All I have done so far with the one still air cooled if to make sure I blow the dust out of the heatsink often, set it's fan at 100%, set it's memory at 1125 (it's core is still 1100) and always have an external fan blowing into it's in-built fans.
MSI made a 'lightning' version of the 290x and it has the best air cooler of any of my cards, but it's huge. I had it overclocked to 1150 core and it ran at 65 degrees for hours, but it wasn't stable and would crash after 4-6 hours so now it's at 1080 (factory) and it's at 60 degrees with its fan at 60%
I think the best air-cooled non-x 290s are the Sapphire tri-x ones, and I have four of them. Even the tri-x ones I have that are crammed together never go above 70.
I have never undervolted my 290s but I have all of them at memory 1125. I don't think memory set at 1100 is advisable because I think @work told me that their voltage table is in steps of 125, so factory clock of 1250 - 125 = 1125. Next step down would be 1000 and I think that would drop the hash rate or just not work. Most of them are at core 1100, some of them wont do it though and they are at 1050. All the ones at 1100 are hashing at 29-31.
@newmz I reapplied the past successfully, it helped...but only a bit.
The only thing that keeps the temps reasonable are dropping the power limit down. at -15% I can reach 82-84 degrees. Right now I'm at -20% and stable at 78 degrees, however I'm only hashing 25MH ETH 440MH SIA. All at 100% fan of course.
@adaseb I don't have a wattmeter but in GPU-Z I'm getting ~140w @ -20% and like 200w at full power. I can only imagine what its pulling at the wall stilt bios is only for reference right? does it just change memory straps like many are doing with the 480s?
xxxxx-x-xx.y-yy
xxxxx = STILT (obviously )
x = M (purpose, = mining)
x/xx = P (Hawaii PRO) or XT (Hawaii XT)
y = Version Config (V for VID)
yy = SVI2 VID code in hex
Original thread by the stilt:
https://litecointalk.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=eddv3at0lhd0mh6eigv12dfoj7&topic=12830.msg121827#msg121827
Stable for months now @ 82 degrees.
What I did extra was clean the old thermal grease off well, removed old thermal pads, and used good gelid GC solution thermal paste (rated higher than arctic silver) and put on new thermal pads. Also have a fan pointing at them at a 45 degree angle towards the front of the card as I find that gives it the best temperature.